Hampstead part III: Kenwood House

(part two is posted directly before this. i am posting in quicker succession than usual, so read the two preceding posts to catch up to where i am now, if you feel so inclined)

I begin to the left, as told, and it’s not long before I come to their library. It’s beautiful. I love libraries. It wasn’t enormous and it was ornate enough to be inviting but not too intimidating. I wanted to sit down and read a book. No photos were allowed but I’ll try to find a photo online or I may go back for some postcards or souvenirs.

(taken from the kenwood house section of english heritage's site. this is a shot of the library) 

I move onto the next room where I hear creepy music like some man is just singing some sketchy drinking song in a nearby room. I thought they must have some odd historic video playing upstairs until the man guarding the other room came in to try to figure out the music as well. We both looked at each other and kind of shrugged and laughed. We had a moment. Then I went into the room he was guarding, one of the main art rooms. In addition to some nice portraits by Gainsborough, Reynolds, and Romney there were two non-english works worth mentioning.

First is the self-portrait by Rembrandt which is widely thought to be one of his best, apparently.

Second is, and the one I am more interested in, is “The Guitar Player” by Vermeer.

I can’t recall exactly what the man said but either there are 6 Vermeers in the UK and 4 must stay at all times, or there are 4 Vermeers in the UK and 2 must stay at all time. I think it is the 6/4. But this one NEVER moves. Never.

Vermeer’s wife/lover had used this to pay off a debt and the person at Kenwood back in the day (I don’t know the whole lineage. You’ll find I don’t know the full story to a lot of things this trip as it was quite the whirlwind adventure, but hopefully I give enough info that you could google it if you want to know more). Anyway, she used it to pay off a debt, and this guy bought it from a dealer. She later tried to buy it back, to no avail; it was the only one she ever tried to buy back, which led people to believe that the girl in the painting might be one of their daughters.

vermeer's "guitar player" from the kenwood house site.

The painting itself is quite striking. It certainly fits in with Vermeer’s use of light and putting a girl in a domestic setting, but it looks different, more casual almost. In some ways it looks less detailed, but it others it seems more so. Like the guitar strings, for example, appear to be vibrating like they were just strummed. The girl glances to the side as though someone just called her name while she was practicing. A framed landscape hangs in the background (I love stuff like that: a painting within a painting). Evidence shows Vermeer possibly used a camera obscura. He has cropped the painting at her arm, but the canvas was not altered. This is how it was painted, which is unlike the style at the time. It was nice, and I learned quite a bit from my new ‘what’s that weird music’ friend.

I moved throughout the lovely house, to a room that had paintings by my boy JMW Turner.  I love him. There was also a portrait of a man whose name I forget already, but he was an inventor as well and the Skeleton Clock he had created sat directly across the room from him.

Kenwood House had a great decorative arts collection; much of it made possible by the Victoria and Albert Museum, one of my favorite museums of all time. Another painting looked like it easily could have been my mom as a kid, and a different one in the room like pretty much exactly like me.

I walked through a music room containing a piano, harp, organ, etc. and then made my way upstairs. The second level had portraits of the people and the family related to Kenwood House in some way. Some were pretty awesome. One artist seemed to do things very much like Holbein (of the famed Henry the  IIV portrait). Another room contained jewelry (including some crazy iron stuff from Berlin), and a bunch of mini portraits –not really my thing. BUT there was a wall of shoe buckles. YES cases and cases of shoes buckles. I love shoe buckles now. I want them. Bring back shoe buckles!

I ended with a trip to the museum store, almost bought many many things, but actually bought a book for two pounds on sale that highlighted the free English Heritage sights across London and the UK. Worthy, I think, of 2 pounds.  Then I take myself to the other side of the building , past the orangery under repair and into the Steward’s Room – a little café where I buy a huge and delightful cheddar and tomato sandwich. With mayo of course. Yuck. Why the mayo, England? Always. Mayo.

Hampstead Heath part II: i accidentally stalk a family

This is it. it seemed like I had walked for so long. Sadly it was kind of a cloudy day. Cold too, though it didn’t seem so after the trek and I wound up having to take off and carry my jacket. Apparently you can see wonderful views of the city through the trees on Hampstead Heath, but it was a bit too overcast. It’s ok. I was content with the lakes, fall foliage, and unleashed dogs romping around through the leaves.

I wander by the water reading  the signs about the scum and duckweed then find myself somehow pretty much accidentally stalking this couple and their small child who was in a stroller. So that’s awkward. I follow them up a hill keeping a certain distance that I had calculated to scientifically be considered the least creepy. i noticed a building in the distance and asked myself whether it was Kenwood House (which I was trying to reach) or even possibly somewhere with toilets, but it was far and I decided it was neither. Unfortunately I didn’t pause long enough to allow the couple and child to get far enough ahead so before long I caught up with them again. This time we were on a beautiful path lined with autumnal colored trees.

All of the sudden their little boy starts to run away from them and in my direction. “NO! Adam!” they yell. And he turns around and runs back to them. They look at me. I look at them. I smile a little and say hello, because what else can you do when someone just yelled as though you were going to steal their child? (as if I am remotely interested in being responsible for a child). They smile back. A little TOO smiley. A smile that says they clearly think I am nuts and want nothing to do with me. a smile that asks ‘are you planning on eating our baby?’ and a smile that answers its own question with an emphatic ‘yes. Yes you are.’ This is when I decided to make a point of using my freakishly long legs to quicken my pace and pass them.

After I have gotten far enough away, I decide to meander a bit more. Near a pond was a lovely blue winged bird that I DID actually stalk, and it probably also wondered if I would eat its babies. (note: I ate no one’s babies). Then I come across a street. Bad news. but then I find a map! Good news!

So I reorient  myself and start wandering again. I come to a path covered in leaves, which were cleverly covering lots of mud. I decide to take this path because the colors just look so darn nice. I only almost fell twice.

Soon I see I an iron fence and decide it is probably a good idea to follow it. which it was. After I go in the entrance I see a sign saying ‘Kenwood House and Estate.’  Ha! Made it! and I am not even a girl scout. I walk along a path that seems to go on forever, yet get nowhere; past two old ladies with two matching poodles; past a young man throwing a ball across the vast expanse of green so his less sissy dog could retrieve it. Finally, I come across signs and follow them until I come to a gravelly driveway leading to a lovely mansion that was of course, undergoing construction (another theme of this trip, you will find). I let myself in, after my wiping my shoes on their shoe cleaner outside, and then a man at the front desk asks if I’ve been there before. After I say no, he kindly tells me that it’s free (obviously I look like I need things to be free, which is fine by me) and he tells me everything else I might need to know. He was very kind and informative.

 this was interesting. i believe it was a way to buffer the old tree and protect it since it was weak.